Without a doubt, September is our busiest beekeeping month –
there is so much to do! Don’t get me wrong, Spring wasn’t particularly idle; we
had our work cut out managing swarm behaviour and ensuring our colonies were
healthy and thriving, but late summer presents other challenges.
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A Dadant hive ready to harvest
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The bees are very aware of the equinox and reduced hours of daylight,
so the race is on to ensure they have foraged for enough nectar to turn into
honey for their winter stores. Of course, this is when we turn up, smacking our
lips, ready to pinch this honey.
However, we are very careful to only harvest
the surplus honey, the honey that has been stored in the separate ‘super’ box
above the main hive (in our vertical hives like the one in the picture).
Sometimes there isn’t very much to harvest, especially if the weather has been
bad, so we just have to accept that there won’t be any for us. We will check
the brood box to see if there is honey stored there, at the top of the brood
frames and all over the frames at the outer edges of the box. If there doesn’t
seem to be much (perhaps due to the bad weather or Asian hornets preventing our
foragers from doing their jobs), then we will offer them some food in the form
of sugar syrup which they can take and store. A colony of bees in a 10-frame
French Dadant hive typically requires approximately 18-20kg of food to last until
next year so by ‘hefting’ the hives (lifting and weighing) we can assess if
they have enough.
To make things a little more complicated, these numbers and
processes change, depending on what type of hive the bees live in, with some
providing a healthier environment from the get-go for our colonies. We have
five different hive types here at 13 Bees and it’s always fascinating to see
which colonies fair better during the winter.
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Amanda and a Warré hive and Kevin with our horizontal Layens hive
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On a warm late summer/early autumn day it seems strange to
be thinking about temperatures close to zero, but this is what we have to do to
help our bees prepare for the months ahead. We will check that the hives are in
good condition as, if anything needs replacing, now is the time to do it. We
are still able to open the hives and check for damage, rectifying it while we
have the opportunity to do so.
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a 2023 red-marked queen
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The future of a colony of bees depends on the queen being
healthy and fertile – no baby bees, no next generation. By autumn the queen’s
laying rate will have been decreasing for several weeks, from a peak of around
1500-2000 eggs a day, as too many mouths to feed in the winter would deplete
the stores too rapidly. The eggs that the queen lays in the autumn become what
is now known as ‘winter bees’, a special caste of bees that are physically
different from their summertime sisters and have longer lifespans. We used to
think that the bees that were in colonies over the winter lived longer simply
because they didn’t have to work as hard. No foraging or flying would conserve
their energy. However, it’s now been discovered that the winter bees are given
a pollen-scarce diet compared to summertime larvae which means they develop
extra fat reserves, changing their metabolism and enabling them to live for six
months instead of six weeks. It’s important that the colony recognises that
winter is coming and instructs the queen to stop laying drones and begin to
create female workers that will be fed this different diet. The winter bees
will eat the stored honey and keep the colony warm during the winter by
‘shivering’ their bodies. When the queen starts laying again, slowly at first,
the winter bees will feed the new larvae which will pupate into the bees that
will replace them in the Spring.
So, all of the above means that one of the checks we carry
out is to ensure the queen is healthy and young enough that she will survive
the winter. By now we would hope that our colonies will have recognised a
dwindling queen pheromone from an older queen and will have superseded (replaced)
her, and we have noticed that several of our 3-year old queen bees have been
replaced by younger models. Hopefully these new queens mated well and will have
long and fruitful lives, and we can check this by noting how much brood (eggs,
larvae, and pupating bees) there is in each colony. If there are any doubts
then we can replace the queen by procuring a newly-mated queen from beekeeping
colleagues or breeders. It may seem harsh but it will ensure the survival of
the colony.
Once everything has been checked and we are satisfied that
our bees are ready for winter, we can sit back and enjoy the rest of the
sunshine! What do you do?
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